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Mario Prosoparis – Clinic & Job Dress

Gepubliceerd op 21 07 2023

“Welcome to the dirtiest industry apart from the oil sector that you could possibly be in.” When Mario Prosoparis started as CEO at the professional fashion manufacturer Clinic and Job Dress (CJD), he was greeted in a rather unusual way. In this interview, Mario openly addresses all of the current challenges the textile industry is dealing with, mainly focusing on producing sustainable clothes, extending the product´s lifespan, and disposing of or recycling worn-out products properly.

Mario heads CJD, a company specialising in fashionable workwear with over 70 years of experience. The northern German retailer operates as a designer, manufacturer, and distributor. In the medical field, the company sells its products under the brand CLINIC DRESS, making it one of the largest brands in this segment in Europe. In the gastronomy and hotel industry, the company operates under the brand PROFI DRESS. CJD is part of THE COTTON GROUP, whose members are mainly active in the occupational clothing and merchandising market segment. Each year, CJD dispatches several million garments from its headquarters in Bramsche near Osnabrück, Lower Saxony. The company operates with over 120 employees in Germany and France, as well as in the Netherlands, Austria, and Switzerland. Its customers include major clients such as clinics, hospitals, and nursing homes. Medium-sized customers, such as medical practices and pharmacies, as well as individual customers purchasing workwear for themselves, are also part of their clientele.

According to Mario’s own account, he had to swallow hard after being greeted, as sustainability is indeed a significant issue for the entire fashion industry. “So we have taken on this challenge to better fulfil our responsibility.” Mario’s key realization is that everything begins and ends with a good product.

“When it comes to sustainability, we at CJD differentiate three main phases concerning our products: The first phase revolves around sourcing and production. The second phase focuses on ensuring that the product is worn by the customer for as long as possible. Finally, it is about how worn-out clothing can be recycled or disposed of permanently.”

PRODUCING SUSTAINABLE CLOTHES

It primarily concerns the working conditions at the production facility, the sustainability of the raw materials procured, and transportation. In professional settings, fabrics must meet significantly higher demands than in casual wear, where it is less important for the fabrics to be maximally durable and resistant to external influences. On the other hand, they must not be rigid like a suit of armour since users need to move, bend, and stretch a lot.

“That puts us in a dilemma regarding the materials,” explains Mario. “Of course, we could exclusively use natural, compostable raw materials — which we actually do. However, customers often perceive them as too rigid, not hygienically washable at high temperatures, or not durable enough. Although organically certified cotton may ultimately be compostable, vast amounts of water are still consumed and chemicals are used during its production. Cotton also absorbs a lot of moisture. A problem for when the wearer sweats heavily during physical work.

Polyester, a plastic derived from mineral oil, may be notorious for not decomposing, but it is also one of the most durable materials. It is nearly indestructible, even when subjected to high washing temperatures or continuous stress. From a sustainability perspective, this longevity can be a significant advantage because the garments can be worn much longer. Additionally, almost all functions of sportswear, such as elasticity or breathability, are hardly conceivable without synthetic fibres. Therefore, material blends are often used to combine the best of both worlds. Unfortunately, these blends cannot be easily separated later on.” This challenge will be revisited in the third phase.

“In any case, we ensure that our production sites are as close together as possible, reducing transportation distances. Depending on the products, our manufacturing is spread across the globe, from very close in Europe to locations in the Far East. However, whenever possible, all parties involved, such as weavers and seamstresses, are located in close proximity to each other. Subsequently, the garments can be delivered to us in a single shipment.” Within these procurement processes, Clinic and Job Dress are already well-established and highly optimized. We also increasingly choose service providers based on their sustainability efforts. “But we are aware that we are still far from reaching the end of the road.”

CJD has set the goal of consistently experimenting with more advanced materials. “New solutions constantly emerge on the market, which we can help bring to market maturity. Recently, we spoke with companies that use natural rubber instead of elastane to make fabrics more durable. Such solutions give me a positive outlook, even if they currently do not withstand high washing temperatures sufficiently for workwear.”

THE SECOND PHASE: PRODUCT DURABILITY

In the textile industry, there is a wide spectrum of approaches in this context. On one extreme, there are fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion providers who offer products designed for “one-time use and then disposal.” Clinic Dress workwear is the exact opposite.

“By definition, our products must meet high hygienic requirements, provide wearing comfort, and at the same time, maintain a professional appearance even after numerous washes,” Mario explains. “Our customers rely on that. That’s why we face a second dilemma: Since our products are so durable, they are less frequently repurchased. However, our customers remain extremely loyal to us for a very long time, even for decades.”

”Our products must meet high hygienic requirements, provide wearing comfort, and at the same time, maintain a professional appearance even after numerous washes.”

Since the founding of the Clinic Dress brand over 70 years ago, CJD has successfully learned to produce increasingly durable products that are also super comfortable and fulfil many functions, even under extreme conditions. The company can provide certificates and seals to demonstrate these qualities. “We have even developed many product features in collaboration with our customers,” Mario proudly states. “And from that, specific outfits and collections have emerged. Some of them are our bestsellers.”

Another proof of the performance of their products is the collaboration with volume-intensive partners who offer CJD workwear as a leasing service, including industrial washing and drying. “It’s not a coincidence that these customers choose our products under these conditions. Normal department store fashion would quickly fail in such situations!”

Looking ahead, CJD aims to make its products even more durable during the second phase of usage. “For example, we already take back selected garments and repair them. Second-hand sales are also a perspective, although customers in Germany, in particular, still respond hesitantly to such offers. However, international aid projects gladly accept this B-grade clothing. Recently, we equipped an entire children’s hospital in the earthquake-stricken area of Turkey, and it was entirely free of charge.”

“But eventually, every product—regardless of what it is—reaches the end of its lifespan. This is the point where every company in the textile industry is struggling. What do you do now if your clothing is not made of 100% compostable eco-fibre?” asks Mario.

HOW TO DISPOSE AND RECYCLE CLOTHS?

“The challenge for our industry today is to find someone who can separate mixed fabrics and process them into new fabric sheets. Although there are already some isolated solutions on the market, this form of recycling is not yet mass-scalable. Additionally, the fabric remnants cannot be endlessly sewn into new patchwork clothing or designer handbags, as is currently fashionable, because there is not a sufficiently large market for such waste. The only solution is to persistently pursue, search further, and perhaps participate in recycling pilot projects. In a conversation with representatives from a textile university, it was even argued that, for now, one of the best options is to destroy such mixed products in an incineration plant near the location. This approach has the advantage of recovering energy and, most importantly, keeping the process completely under control, preventing disposed material from ending up as fabric bales in illegal garbage dumps or as microplastics in the ocean.”

”The challenge for our industry is to find a way to separate the mixed fabrics and process them into new fabric sheets.”

LET’S TALK ABOUT THE BACKGROUND NOISE…

In addition to all the aforementioned initiatives, Mario and CJD are taking other equally important steps apart from the products. “We recently moved into a completely new building that is energy-efficient and up-to-date. It has a solar panel system on the roof, which provides our own power supply. Our premises are green wherever possible, including bee-friendly areas and a pond.” The company is gradually transitioning its fleet of company cars to electric vehicles and has installed charging stations on its premises, including those for employees’ e-bikes, to commute emission-free to work.

CJD aims to send its parcels with minimal carbon emissions, and the company is experimenting with various packaging materials. “We even tried using grass as a base for packaging,” says Mario. “However, we cannot completely move away from catalogues.” Although the company has a high online share of over 70%, Mario regrets that it cannot fully adopt a digital approach. “Large customers or teams in medical practices still appreciate flipping through our catalogues together. So, we continue to focus on using sustainably produced paper.”

In terms of implementation, Mario firmly believes that as the CEO of his own company, he can achieve more than a dedicated CSR position could.

“First and foremost, I am responsible for raising awareness of CSR issues throughout the organization. I am the one who can facilitate, encourage, and promote improvements across different areas.”

“This applies to all departments, from procurement and production to marketing, sales, and finance. And as I said, everything begins and ends with a good product.” However, CJD is also a member of a larger corporate group. At the group level, a dedicated CSR function has been established. “This makes much more sense in order to benefit from a broader perspective. It ensures that all production sites, including those of our sister companies within the group operating in many other countries, are audited in the same way. It is reassuring to know that sustainability is also a significant concern for our owners and investors.”

Examples within the textile industry are also helpful. Patagonia is widely known for completely overhauling its business model. The organization no longer aims solely for maximum profit but prioritizes giving back. This is truly a pioneering source of inspiration. As a result, CJD identifies individual stages of production or specific products that are intriguing and present new perspectives. Smaller German companies, such as Wildling Shoes, are also a great source of inspiration.

For CJD, the driving force behind everything is the idea that their customers are all about helping others and doing good. In return, CJD can do good for people who do good in their jobs through their workwear. This concept motivates employees to make a valuable contribution together with their customers. Thinking and acting sustainably is only a logical consequence. Mario sums it up: “For me, one thing is clear: I don’t want to work in one of the dirtiest industries dependent on oil forever. Every day, together with my team, I strive to change that. Every small step counts.”